FW23: Who Decides War presents a new collection full of holy grails

With its spring/summer 2023 collection selling out in a few minutes, Who Decides War has become one of the most hyped labels of the moment. Reimagining the concept of Americana, Ed Bravado and Tela D’Amore, founders of the label, are introducing ready-to-wear which blurs the line with the couture world, using DIY techniques to make each garment unique. For fall/winter 2023, the duo comes up with an introspective collection, digging deep down in their New York roots and their distinctive style codes.  

The genesis of Who Decides War

Everard Best, who also goes by the name of Ed Bravado, stands out as one of the most influential designers in recent years. Growing up in a family of tailors, he was surrounded by fabrics, needles, and threads from a young age. His passion for design ignited early on, during his college years, as he started crafting his own clothing, driven by the unavailability of what he sought elsewhere. With his unique culture-shifting streetwear proposition, the mastermind behind Who Decides War gained recognition from renowned designers like Virgil Abloh and Demna Gvasalia at a young age. Everard employs techniques such as distressing, shredding, paneling and other DIY methods to infuse a couture-like essence into denim. Teaming up with his partner, Tela D'Amore, the Who Decides War label has become way more than just good-looking clothes; It has evolved into a socially conscious label which transcends the confines of stereotyped streetwear, raising political awareness and redefining the norms of Americana.

Eating the big apple fruit

With a history of working with rappers, Who decides war is directly linked to the immense New York street culture. In the context of the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, with a hip-hop and R&B playlist playing in the background, the runway titled "Politics as Usual" included
looks with direct references to iconic music labels like Ruff Ryders and The Diplomats. This serves as a testament to Tela and Ed's commitment to incorporate in their collection the essence of the city they call home. The duo of designers wanted the collection to be introspective and also hyper-focused on the distinctive codes of Who Decides War, especially the stained-glass windows. They also took influence from what their entourage would wear on the streets, representing their warm loving community rather than the cold
emotionless infrastructures of the city.

A window of inclusivity

It seems like Ed Bravado has styled every big star in the world. When a journalist asked him “Who would you like to dress now?” He casually answered Jesus. Religion has consistently served as a profound inspiration for the designs of Tela and Ed. Their creations from previous seasons incorporated literal Catholic allegories such as crucifixes or the Madonna. However, for their latest collection, the two designers opted for a different approach, choosing to feature stained glass motifs. Commonly found in churches as well as mosques, they can be interpreted in various ways. According to Ed Bravado,«The stained glass is a window, and it’s a mirror, it’s more so a conversation of reflection, whether that’s about yourself or political».This decision reflects a desire to be more inclusive, by moving away from solely relying on religious symbolism tied to Christianity. This collection, which takes a less literal approach, encourages a more open dialogue between the clothing and its wearer, allowing each person to form their own unique interpretation.

Something to add ?

To conclude this impressive collection, Who Decides War teamed up with the Italian outerwear brand add, known for its research-oriented approach, to craft a puffer jacket adorned with a quilted stained-glass window pattern. This creation seamlessly fuses the extravagant streetwear aesthetic of Ed Bravado with the cutting-edge technical expertise of add, making this a real statement piece.