ss24: The new face of Acne Studios surprised everyone at Paris Fashion Week

A deconstructed disco ball, lighting up the entire room of the Paris Observatoire, and an electro soundtrack set the tone for the spring/summer 24 runway of Acne Studios. It’s in this club-like atmosphere that Jonny Johansson, the label’s creative director, hosted his Paris Fashion Week runway on the 27th of September. After last season successful denim campaign featuring Kylie Jenner, the fashion world eagerly anticipated Acne Studios new runway presentation. 

Collaborating with many artists and drawing inspiration from others, Acne Studios provided a unique experience for its audience. In an entirely creme background, the tonal soft pillows from the Austrian designer Lukas Gschwandtner, dispatched everywhere in the room, gave a contrasting clean but disordered feel to the room. With the electro soundtrack of the talented Bristol duo Giantswan in the background, the audience was captivated by the intriguing looks inspired by thescan-ography series of Katerina Jebb, Physical evidence of a woman. Jonny Johansson played cleverly with fashion norms, showcasing “feminine” symbols such as fake eyelashes, red stilettos or lady tights on garments. Going for more audacious looks, the Swedish designer also got creative with semi-sheer materials, overlaid bras, showing apparent lingerie for one of the first times in his career. This just shows how Acne Studios has clearly evolved from the simple classic label we once knew, transforming into a true manifestation of maximal minimalism. This oxymoron was perfectly depicted in this fashion show full of contrasts, with experimental shapes and textures pacing down the catwalk. Acne Studios is more futuristic and daring than ever, and this was reflected in this runway inspired by nightlife and various art forms.

Known for its history with denim, Acne Studios continues to use it as a true guideline for this spring runway. Reminiscent of Martin Margiela’s artisanal days, the denim is covered with a layer of white crackling paint, adding texture to the garments. Jonny Johansson wanted the pieces of the collection to feel unfinished, like works in progress, drawing inspiration from workwear and the industrial world.  Kylie Jenner, face of the memorable FW23 campaign, and her friend Rosalia were seated in front row to witness the first Acne Studios denim bag. Made out of the same white painted jeans material, the unstructured accessory features belt loops, front pockets and a chrome handle to finish the look. This was one of the highlights of the show, capturing the essence of Acne Studios in a single bag.