Jacquemus SS24 "Les Sculptures"

JACQUEMUS was founded by Simon Porte Jacquemus in 2009 in Paris, France. Dedicated to the memory of the designer’s late mother, a passion for culture inspires the JACQUEMUS ready-to-wear and accessories collections for men and women that reference a French way of life and universal gestures of beauty: from fine art photography to the decorative arts, cinema, painting and sculpture.

The latest Jacquemus collection is revealed on a winter visit to la Fondation Maeght whose incomparable art collection has evidenced the spirit of modernity for 60 years.

Returning to this southern part of France where he feels a deep attachment, Simon gains perspective on his years in Paris – his personal growth in parallel to the House, the teams, the creative ambition.

Surrounded by Mediterranean pines and works from Giacometti, Braque and Calder among others, the rond-carré becomes an elemental expression of the JACQUEMUS vision, while surrealist gestures subvert bourgeois style.

Chic is defined by finessed execution. The bonded tailoring of suits alternates with delicately constructed dresses. Roundness is accentuated from the shoulders to the tubular sleeves; outlines run straight along or curve around the body. Asymmetries and dimensional surfaces create unexpected allure. The sheerness of a column dress is counterbalanced by geometric structures that extend from trousers. In homage to artistic eccentricity, shirts boast distorted edges and sweaters tied across the shoulders are a ruse—single-sided and unwearable any other way.

Materials move through different weights: from fluid mousseline and soft jersey to swimsuit fabric and textured knit jacquard. Finishes and embroideries have a crafted touch, whether croco-embossed leather or trompe l’oeil tufts of horse-like hair that bounce like ostrich feathers as a nod to surrealism. The palette is minimal yet striking, comprised of black, white, stone, lipstick red and banana yellow.

Find La Robe Notte and La Chemise Courte Bari from the Jacquemus new collection on SMETS.

Ladylike dressing is given an absurdist twist with double-stacked slingback heels and pumps that expose the foot over the shoe. Men’s thong sandals integrate half-socks as a trompe l’œil. The iconic Repetto lace-up shoe is revisited as “Les Zizi Repetto Jacquemus,” its square silhouette atop a circular low heel. This season’s bags are streamlined and sophisticated: “Le Calino,” a trompe l’oeil bag with a gleaming metal wrist bracelet; “Le Vanity” a compact purse with a round body and square base; “Le Tourni,” an elegant, structured handbag with front closure; and a deep bucket shape with twisting seams.

For the bridal finale, a dress in a gauzy silk mousseline has been thermoformed on a moulded bust, the finishes realised by ultrasound. At once ceremonial and restrained, it feels in dialogue with the sculptures at la Fondation Maeght as a piece that transcends time.